Monday, June 26, 2006

My First New Route!

Well lawks, crivens, and possibly gadzooks aswell - turns out that Not-Holly-Bush-Gully is indeed a hitherto unrecorded route! In our complete inexperience and inability to make sense of the definitive Stanage guidebook, we stumbled across possibly the only square-inch of Stanage that hasn't been climbed and recorded decades ago.

See full discussion on UKClimbing.com

So now I get to give it a grade - I'd say it's VDiff 4b as the finishing move to get onto the top plateau is a bit hairy, because the only bit of protection is quite low down, and there's nothing to grab, so it requires a flat-palming friction move - and most importantly, give it a name.

I'd previously said that the first new route I put down would be called Too Much Rock For One Hand but it somehow just doesn't seem appropriate here - the climb is quite short, if a little hairy.

Suggestions so far include:

  • "Als Brown Pants"

  • "Wu Tang Clan"

  • "Golly Hush Bully"
    because it's not Holly Bush Gully after all

  • "Bob Hoskins"
    because it's quite short but surprisingly hairy

  • "Chastity Belt"
    because there's only bit of protection, but it's crucially quite low down


All suggestions gratefully received :)

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