Friday, December 31, 2010

Everest Base Camp trek day 4 - Frustrations & Recommendations

We drove to the airport this morning feeling positive - "THIS time! Yeah!"

Yalamber thought the signs were good as he surveyed the airport car park with a grin - "lots of mountain trips here today"

We rolled to the check-in counter full of confidence - no scrum, that means no delays, right?

Wrong.

"Sorry sir, all Lukla flights today cancelled, I am sorry,"

Bugger.

With a 14 day trek ahead and only 15 days before our flight back to London, it was time to think of plan B.

So after another come-get-us call to Yalamber, and a detailed plan-redrawing session in the Explore Himalaya office, we now have these options:

Plan A
- fly out to Lukla tomorrow (yes, we WILL!)
- trek as far as Gorak Shep, via Gokyo Ri as planned
- climb Kala Pattar as planned, but don't go on to Everest Base Camp & back the next day
- instead, save one day by heading back down that afternoon.

This allows us to keep one day contingency at the end in case we have troubles flying BACK from Lukla. It means we don't get to see base camp, but Kala Pattar is just as high and actually offers better views of the mountain.

Plan B
- if we can't get a flight tomorrow, we drive to Pokhara in the west, and trek to Annapurna Base Camp.

ABC is only 4100m, compared to EBC's 5600m, hence the trek is a few days shorter and less physically arduous, but it's just as popular. We also know we've been OK going to that altitude before (Toubkal) in just 4 days. So it's easier, but therefore less of an adventure.

Still, an ABC trek would still be pretty awesome, I'm sure...

I have to say that Explore Himalaya have been amazingly helpful, especially Yalamber who just radiates an easy-going calm practicality, and the same goes for all the Nepalis we've dealt with so far. Take the airport staff yesterday - could you imagine anyone at Heathrow taking you out to the runway and rummaging through bin bags for a list ticket with you? I'd have had to fill in forms, ring an 0870 number, spend hours on hold, navigate an automatic menu system, etc etc...

And the food - oh, the food! Some recommendations:

- the daal baat at New Orleans (so good Lise had it two nights running)

- Momo - essentially a Nepali version of dim sum dumplings. Delicious!

- the fajitas at the Northfield Cafe (better than any Mexican food I've had in England)

- the coffee at Mandaps

- "Trekking in the Everest region" by Jamie McGuinness / Trailblazers. Everything we've found ourselves asking about Kathmandu so far, is answered in this book.

I'm going to bed now, as we have to be up at 5am for our last chance of a flight to Lukla. With a bit of luck, this will be my last post for a few days...

Happy New Year!

8 comments:

Anonymous said...

Best of luck Al - a little of that Nepali calm would not go amiss. Also the Happiest of Happy New Years!

Anonymous said...

Happy New Year guys - we hope you made your flight today!

Dave & Saash x

Anonymous said...

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Unknown said...


Welcome To Nepal For Trekking In Everest, Annapurna and Langtang...
Everest Base Camp

Trekking to the Everest Base Camp in one of the most popular treks available. This trek has a number of stunning attractions, one the foremost being the satisfaction gained by reaching the base of the highest mountain in the world. Other attractions include the spectacular scenery of the Himalayan ranges. The Everest trek involves a tremendous amount of uphill and downhill walking.


Itinerary:
Day 01: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2849m) & trek to Phakding (2745m)
Day 02: Trek to Namche (3445m)
Day 03: Rest Day at Namche Bazaar (Hiking to Everest View Hotel)
Day 04: Trek to Tengboche (4245m)
Day 05: Trek to Pheriche (4362m)
Day 06: Pheriche Rest Day.
Day 07: Trek to Lobuche (4575m)
Day 08: Trek to Gorakshape (5165m)
Day 09: Rest Day at Kalapathar (5545m).
Day 10: Trek to Dingboche (4260m).
Day 11: Trek to Tengboche (4245m)
Day 12: Trek to Namche Bazaar.
Day 13: Trek to Lukla
Day 14: Fly back Lukla to Kathmandu
www.nepalguideinfo.com
www.hikehimsalayas.com
Email-sanjib-adhikari@hotmail.com

Unknown said...

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g293890-d2525987-r129902780-Everest_Base_Camp_Day_Trips-Kathmandu_Kathmandu_Valley_Bagmati_Zone_Central_Regi.html

Unknown said...

http://www.nepalguideinfo.com/index.php?link=annapurna

Unknown said...

http://www.nepalguideinfo.com/langtang-region.php

Unknown said...

Phone: 9841613822
http://www.nepalguideinfo.com
Address: Kathmandu
There is no substitute for personalized attention. I traveled to Nepal to visit Everest Base Camp. I traveled alone and had certain trepidation about traveling on my own, but I also knew I wanted to escape the pressures of trekking in a large group. Altitude and safety are paramount on mountain treks and I did not want to end-up hyperventilating trying to keep-up with faster, fitter, trekkers.
Even though, I have altitude experience, I relied heavily on my guide's advice regarding what to eat, pace, and hydration. I have climbed and summitted Mt. Kilimanjaro, so I was confident I could complete this trek, but nothing can prepare you for the terrain of the Hymalayas. it is truly a humbling experience.
Mr. Adhikari came highly recommended by other trekkers, who were only too willing to write positive and detailed letters of recommendation. I found that all their recommendations were more than true. Mr. Adhikari has been to Everest Base Camp more than 50 plus times, as a woman traveling alone, I found his level of professionalism refreshing. I cannot count the times, Mr. sanjib Adhikari truly saved me from my inexperienced trekking self. Anything from ensuring I would.
not be run over by a Yak, horse, or donkey to keeping me focused on the difficult terrain, and somehow ensuring I stopped long enough to enjoy the scenery (in spite of my exhaustion). I shudder to think what my trek would have been like if I'd been just another trekker in a large group. I have to comment that I have never been so healthy-stomach wise at altitude.
Mr. Adhikari explains that when organizing for larger groups, he makes provisions for trekkers like me who tend to walk at a slower pace. I thought for sure that, this time, my ambition had superseded my ability, but thanks to Mr. Adhikari, my long time dream of seeing Everest Base Camp first hand came true. I was able to spend time in the rarified air and observe camp life, took plenty of pictures, and asked Mr. Adhikari numerous questions about his experiences around the area.
I was very aware of the economic implications of traveling with a Nepali Operator vs. a foreign trekking company. I wanted my trip not to only be a self-serving adventure, but numerous travel books suggest that traveling with a Nepali Operator does ensure more of the money goes and stays into the Nepali economy. I was unsure how the whole experience would unfold, but I am staying here and going to Annapurna Base Camp with the same operator. Mr. adhikari seems to be grounded on the mountain community ad well as in Kathmandu. It was reassuring to see he has good and long standing relationships with other guides and the mountain community.

Visited April 2012.
email-:sanjib-adhikari@hotmail.com
http://www.hikehimalayas.com