Nice video of Sonny Trotter's first "free" (i.e. trad) ascent of Cobra Crack at Squamish in Canada. He climbed it 30-40 times over a couple of years, before finally doing the first traditional ascent.
It's a beautiful bit of climbing, really controlled and technical, with lots of finger jamming. There's a thread over at UKC discussing the clip, and what UK grade it should be, using Dave McLeod's first ascent of Rhapsody as a comparison. Although Cobra Crack looks to have a reasonable amount of protection, the odds
of being able to hold yourself to the wall long enough to be able to place it are minimal!
This picture shows the overhanging crack at more like its true angle - yikes!
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
Monday, December 18, 2006
Lise Cracks 6a!
After a mammoth 5hr session at The Castle yesterday, Lise finally completed her first 6a. Yay!!! Not the one we'd all been trying - that one's still waiting to be solved -
but one just next to it. Ant followed and finished cleanly too. I'd have had a go myself, but I'd completely knackered myself out battling with a brute of
a 6b layback route on the feature wall ("Catacombs") opposite, which I
didn't finish, but gave a valiant attempt at.
I've been conscious of the fact that my layback / crack work is a weaker
aspect of my technique - probably associated with doing most of my
climbing inside, as it's rare that you get pure layback cracks on an
indoor wall, yet outside at Stanage they're everywhere. Also, I've been
really enjoying features-only routes recently, as I like the freedom to decide
which holds you're going to use and how you're going to attack each problem,
rather than being constrained to a particular set of colour-coded holds
which dictate a given set of moves.
So I started on a 25m-high features-only route upstairs, on a large column
that thins out into a tufa at the top. It was rated 5b, and I did it fairly cleanly,
only stopping for a rest at about 20m when I got an attack of Elvis leg. I then tried a ridiculous 6a in the corner with an outrageous
dyno that I couldn't get past, and moved downstairs to the catacombs
- my favourite bit of the centre - where I threw myself at the features-only problems until my fingers just wouldn't work anymore.
My forearms still hurt today, it's almost painful to type, but it feels....... good.
but one just next to it. Ant followed and finished cleanly too. I'd have had a go myself, but I'd completely knackered myself out battling with a brute of
a 6b layback route on the feature wall ("Catacombs") opposite, which I
didn't finish, but gave a valiant attempt at.
I've been conscious of the fact that my layback / crack work is a weaker
aspect of my technique - probably associated with doing most of my
climbing inside, as it's rare that you get pure layback cracks on an
indoor wall, yet outside at Stanage they're everywhere. Also, I've been
really enjoying features-only routes recently, as I like the freedom to decide
which holds you're going to use and how you're going to attack each problem,
rather than being constrained to a particular set of colour-coded holds
which dictate a given set of moves.
So I started on a 25m-high features-only route upstairs, on a large column
that thins out into a tufa at the top. It was rated 5b, and I did it fairly cleanly,
only stopping for a rest at about 20m when I got an attack of Elvis leg. I then tried a ridiculous 6a in the corner with an outrageous
dyno that I couldn't get past, and moved downstairs to the catacombs
- my favourite bit of the centre - where I threw myself at the features-only problems until my fingers just wouldn't work anymore.
My forearms still hurt today, it's almost painful to type, but it feels....... good.
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